By Stokkybye

Hans Christian Andersen’s Island Makes Sparkling Wine for Geranium and Le Taillevent: Helle and Jacob Stokkebye on Making Michelin-Listed Wine on Funen

By Stokkebye Vingård is one of a new generation of Danish wineries making serious sparkling wine in a cool, northern country, and one of the few whose bottles have reached the Michelin tables of Copenhagen and Paris. It belongs to Helle and Jacob Stokkebye and sits on the east coast of Funen, Hans Christian Andersen’s island, an hour and a quarter by train from Copenhagen.

On six hectares they grow Pinot Noir, Solaris, Johanniter, L’Acadie Blanc and even Golubok — a dark, early-ripening hybrid from Odesa on the Black Sea, bred to handle hard winters. Everything is organic: sparkling wine, whites such as Liva and Victor, and a little port-style fortified wine. Most are named after their children and their dog.

The sparkling wine is the heart of it.

Stella Mary is made the Champagne way, with the bubbles formed in the bottle during a second fermentation, then left on the lees for up to three years before release. Most of it is Brut Nature, with no added sugar, and the 2021 vintage scored 93 points in a Falstaff tasting of Nordic wines.

It started as a hobby in 2009, in the family garden in the village of Bovense and a dozen grape varieties planted to see which would ripen this far north. The first wine was bottled in 2012. Today there are 22,000 vines, a winery in a 1931 grain barn, organic certification in field and cellar, and a place on the wine lists of Geranium, Jordnær, Falsled Kro, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Le Taillevent.

Jacob trained as a waiter at Kong Hans in Copenhagen, worked as a sommelier in Bordeaux and in Michelin restaurants in France, co-founded the Danish Sommelier Association and has traded in caviar for more than thirty years. Helle worked for the Danish Foreign Ministry and the United Nations and as a consultant on sustainable business before becoming a full-time winegrower in 2018.

With Locals Insider, they share their story, their philosophy of wine, and the places on Funen they would send any first-time visitor.

How we started: from 1,000 vines in 2009 to 22,000 today

We started in 2009, when we planted the first 1,000 vines and tried out different varieties (more than 20) to see what could actually be done here. It was just a hobby, we were curious to see which sort would survive. Today, 17 years later, we have 22,000 vines on six hectares and we are among the most recognised wineries in the country.

“It started as a hobby. Today, 17 years later, we have 22,000 vines on six hectares.”

bystokkebye.com - Danish winemaking
bystokkebye.com
Locals Insider · the bigger picture

Why cold-climate wine is on the rise

  1. 2014 · Hampshire, EnglandChampagne house Pommery buys vineyard land in England — the first of the grandes marques to invest across the Channel.Source: Fine+Rare
  2. 2015 · Kent, EnglandTaittinger and its UK partner Hatch Mansfield buy a 69-hectare apple farm at Chilham, chosen for chalk soil and south-facing slopes, and announce Domaine Evremond.Source: Hatch Mansfield; Great British Life
  3. 2017 · Kent, EnglandPierre-Emmanuel Taittinger plants the first vines — the first Grande Marque Champagne house to plant in Britain.Source: Hatch Mansfield
  4. 2024 · Kent, EnglandDomaine Evremond is officially opened, with the first bottles released the following spring. Around 60 hectares are now under vine.Source: Great British Life; Fine+Rare
  5. Today · Funen, DenmarkStokkebye ages its Brut Nature up to three years on the lees, 800 km north of Kent.Source: Stokkebye Vingård

The reason: frost, heat and disease pressure in Champagne are part of it. The other part is the slow, late ripening that keeps acidity and freshness — exactly what the Stokkebyes’ Brut Nature is built on.

Sources: Hatch Mansfield (Taittinger’s UK partner), Domaine Evremond, Fine+Rare, Great British Life.

Our grapes and wines

We grow Pinot Noir, Solaris, Johanniter, L’Acadie Blanc and Golubok.

By Stokkebye makes around 20,000 bottles a year, and we expect to reach 25,000–27,000. It is primarily organic sparkling and white wine, and a little fortified wine made on the port method.

Several of our wines are popular and regularly get high ratings in Danish and international tastings. Our top white, Liva 2024, was named the best Danish white wine in DinVinGuide in August 2026, and our sparkling Stella Mary 2021 was placed among the nine best, with 93 points, in a Falstaff Nordics tasting of Danish and Swedish wines earlier this year.

The vineyard has been certified organic since 2022, and the winemaking since 2025.

Our philosophy: organic, low-intervention wine

“We usually say that 90 per cent of the wine’s quality comes from the quality and condition of the grapes.”

From the very beginning our goal has been to make wine on a par with high-quality wine from the traditional wine countries. By Stokkebye’s philosophy is that the wine is made primarily in the field. We usually say that 90 per cent of the wine’s quality comes from the quality and condition of the grapes — including growing them organically and sustainably.

In the winery we work on low-intervention principles: we do as little as possible and let the wine develop and mature in the time it takes. That also means we age our wines for a relatively long time before we release them.

Danish sparkling wine from BY Stokkebye

What makes By Stokkebye sparkling wine special

“We are now up to three years sur lie. We mainly make Brut Nature — no added sugar.”

It is made by the traditional method — the Champagne method — where the fine bubbles form in the bottle during the second fermentation. We try to age it on the lees in the bottle for as long as possible, and we are now up to three years sur lie. We mainly make Brut Nature, which means no added sugar.

Jakob from By Stokkebye Winery

Danish wine is growing fast

“Foreign investment will certainly come with time.”

Danish wine is in strong growth. Several of the existing wineries are expanding and new ones are arriving. Foreign investment will certainly come with time too. And there is generally more attention on Danish wine from consumers, restaurants, hotels and the media, both in Denmark and internationally.

Locals Insider · the data

Danish wine in numbers

+62%Sales of Danish-made wine, 2016–2022 (13m → 21m kroner)
34m krDanish wine sales by 2023
1,000+Hobby growers behind the commercial wineries
500–600kBottles a year, against 150 million litres Danes drink
2018Dons, Kolding fjord, becomes the EU’s northernmost protected designation of origin
1975Solaris bred in Freiburg — Denmark’s key grape

Why Solaris? The early-ripening, fungus-resistant hybrid copes with a short season and a wet August better than the classic varieties, and gives the aromatic, honeyed whites Denmark is becoming known for.

Sources: Statistics Denmark; Danish Wine Growers’ Association.

By Stokkebye sparkling wine from Denmark
Wine is half the story. Jacob Stokkebye has traded caviar for thirty years, learned production in Azerbaijan, and now selects his own from sturgeon farmed in the lakes of Schleswig-Holstein.

Funen, Denmark: 10 Places to Eat, Stay and Visit, Chosen by the Stokkebye Winemakers

Locals Insider note: Funen is the green island in the middle of Denmark, an hour and a quarter by train from Copenhagen and the place Hans Christian Andersen called home. Out on its east coast, a short drive from the harbour at Kerteminde, the Stokkebyes grow their grapes, and you can pick up a bottle of their sparkling wine from the farm shop by the vines.

There are so many lovely places on Funen. If we had to recommend some for food and wine, it would be the ones below — and at most of them you can also enjoy our wines and/or our caviar.

1. Hotel Hesselet, Nyborg

Hotel Hesselet Nyborg

A wonderful hotel from the 1960s, currently being renovated with respect for the original architecture, with a new owner since a couple of years ago. We have just launched a brand-new wine, Victor, made from Pinot Blanc, in an exclusive collaboration with Hotel Hesselet. You can also enjoy our Stella bubbles with breakfast at the weekend.

Christianslundsvej 119, 5800 Nyborg · hotel-hesselet.dk

2. Risinge Herregaard

Risinge Herregård

A beautiful manor house just 3 km from the vineyard, with a new tenant. Rooms for both individuals and groups, a pop-up restaurant, yoga and a café with a view of the lovely garden.

Risingevej 7, 5540 Ullerslev

3. Hotel The Monica, Ærøskøbing, Ærø

Hotel The Monica, Ærøskøbing, Ærø

A small, exclusive boutique guesthouse in Ærøskøbing with just three rooms, which feels like an exclusive home away from home. It is owned and run by Monica Conradsen, a well-travelled woman who lived in different countries for 25 years. Here you can enjoy both our wine and our caviar.

Brogade 16, 5970 Ærøskøbing

4. Rudolf Mathis, Kerteminde

Rudolf Mathis, Kerteminde

Previously named Denmark’s best fish restaurant, and celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2025. The loveliest fish and seafood dishes with a view of Kerteminde harbour. We love going there ourselves in summer, sitting on the terrace and enjoying dinner while the sun goes down.

Dosseringen 13, 5300 Kerteminde

5. Lieffroy, Nyborg

Lieffroy, Nyborg

We also recommend the acclaimed Lieffroy in Nyborg. Relais & Châteaux. Worth at least one Michelin star — even though it doesn’t have one. Run by the passionate couple Helle and Patrick Lieffroy, and beautifully set right down by the Great Belt.

Skræddergyden 34, 5800 Nyborg · lieffroy.dk

6. Falsled Kro, south Funen

Falsled Kro, south Funen

Also Relais & Châteaux. An exclusive four-star inn and hotel on south Funen with gastronomy at a high level. Jacob was restaurant manager and co-director there in his younger days, so the place has a very special place in his heart. Jacob trained as a waiter at Kong Hans — back when Erik and Lene Grønlykke owned both Kong Hans and Falsled Kro.

Assensvej 513, 5642 Millinge · falsledkro.dk

7. Madeleine, Odense

Madeleine, Odense

A new Danish-French restaurant in Odense that has already had a string of great reviews.

Vestergade 5, 5000 Odense C

8. Måle Røgeri (Røgeri Hindsholm), Hindsholm

Måle Røgeri (Røgeri Hindsholm), Hindsholm

A unique little gem in Måle on the Hindsholm peninsula, north of Kerteminde: a smokehouse producing goods of the very highest quality. It sells to the best restaurants and has a little shop, and in the summer season you can sit in the garden and enjoy the smokehouse’s wonderful dishes.

Stavrevej 4, 5300 Kerteminde

9. Egeskov Castle and Heartland Festival

Egeskov Castle and Heartland Festival

Every year we take part with our caviar and wine bar at Heartland Festival, held in June at Egeskov. A magical festival that completely matches our products and our philosophy of high quality, sustainability and organics.

Egeskovgade 18, 5772 Kværndrup · egeskov.dk

10. Johannes Larsen Museum, Kerteminde

Johannes Larsen Museum

The lovely Johannes Larsen Museum is also a must if you come by our vineyard (8 km from us) or visit Kerteminde.

Møllebakken 14, 5300 Kerteminde · johanneslarsenmuseet.dk

Where to taste our wines

By Stokkebye on the wine list

Denmark
  • JordnærThree Michelin stars; Nordic fine dining in the historic Gentofte Hotel, north of Copenhagen.Gentoftegade 29, 2820 Gentofte
  • GeraniumThree Michelin stars; Rasmus Kofoed’s meat-free menu on the 8th floor of the Parken stadium.Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8th floor, 2100 Copenhagen Ø
  • KoanTwo Michelin stars; Kristian Baumann’s Korean-Nordic tasting menu on the waterfront.Langeliniekaj 5, 2100 Copenhagen Ø
  • a|o|cTwo Michelin stars; creative Nordic cooking in the vaulted cellar of the 17th-century Moltkes Palæ, near Nyhavn.Dronningens Tværgade 2, 1302 Copenhagen K
  • NimbTivoli’s Moorish palace — boutique hotel with brasserie, bars and a wine cellar.Bernstorffsgade 5, 1577 Copenhagen V
  • ArkFully plant-based tasting menu with foraged, local ingredients.Nørre Farimagsgade 63, 1364 Copenhagen K
  • Falsled Kro16th-century thatched inn and restaurant on south Funen, Relais & Châteaux since 1973.Assensvej 513, 5642 Millinge
France · Paris
  • Le TailleventTwo Michelin stars; a Paris institution since 1946 in the Duc de Morny’s former mansion.15 rue Lamennais, 75008 Paris
  • L’Atelier de Joël RobuchonRobuchon’s counter-dining concept around an open kitchen.Saint-Germain: 5 rue de Montalembert, 75007 Paris
Norway · Trondheim
  • Britannia HotelTrondheim’s five-star grand hotel, founded 1870, member of The Leading Hotels of the World.Dronningens gate 5, 7011 Trondheim
Germany · Glücksburg
  • Alter MeierhofVitalhotel on the Flensburg Fjord, home of the fine-dining restaurant Meierei Dirk Luther.Uferstraße 1, 24960 Glücksburg

Flying out of Denmark?By Stokkebye’s bottles can be bought at Copenhagen Airport.

By Stokkebye, Bovense, FunenKertemindevej 152, 5800 Nyborg · tastings and a caviar-and-wine tour on scheduled dates

Visit bystokkebye.com

More about wines on Locals Insider

Denmark is late to this, but it isn’t alone in making wine somewhere nobody expected. In French Polynesia, a vineyard produces sparkling wine made from pineapples — proof that the traditional method travels further than the traditional map. Sweden has its own version of the shift: the founders of the Swirl wine app, built to put personal taste ahead of crowd ratings, send visitors to Swedish wineries most people don’t know exist. And if you’d rather stay where the vines have been for centuries, our guides cover Italy’s vineyard hotels and a wine journalist’s pick of the top five wine bars in Paris.

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