
Jan Suchánek
Copenhagen
Copenhagen Travel Guide: Where to Stay, Eat, and the New Nordic Scene
Copenhagen is the Danish capital that has, over the past 20 years, become Northern Europe's most-cited model for liveable city design — Noma and the New Nordic dining movement, the iconic Nyhavn harbour-front, the Tivoli Gardens (the world's second-oldest amusement park), and a cycling infrastructure unmatched in any European capital.
The compact city centre is properly walkable; the Christianshavn houseboat district and the alternative Christiania commune give it a counter-cultural edge; and the surrounding Øresund region (with Malmö 35 minutes by train across the bridge) makes for an easy Sweden extension.
This guide is built for first-timers. We’ll start with what you actually need to know — districts, where to sleep, where to eat by mood, and the under-the-radar places we send our own friends to.
Hygge, Nordic design, world-class restaurants (Noma, Geranium, Alchemist), bicycle culture, Tivoli Gardens — and being routinely voted the world’s most liveable city.
Copenhagen has more bicycles than residents — about 675,000 bikes for 660,000 people. Locals cycle 1.4 million km every day.
Copenhagen places our authors recommend

An LGBTQIA+ bookstore serving coffee and drinks, in a basement on Poppelgade in Nørrebro. It is run by three non-binary people, who describe it as a space for queer people to grow, organise and rest.
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Of course, CC is the first place to go.
Open in Google Maps ↗They consistently have fantastic exhibitions, and the setting itself makes the visit an experience.
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Minimalist interiors, thoughtful plates.
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Opened in 2019 by the team behind Marv & Ben, The Pescatarian offers a modern take on Danish seafood, emphasizing sustainability and organic produce.
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their chicken salad on rye is the best
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I also recommend The Circle Bridge by Olafur Eliasson, and the underground exhibition space Cisternerne.
Open in Google Maps ↗It is a very cosy place with a special atmosphere.
Open in Google Maps ↗Where to stay, eat and drink in Copenhagen
Picked by Locals Insider. Every address checked against the venue or Google.
Hotel d’Angleterre
The 1755 grande dame on Kongens Nytorv. One-Michelin-star Marchal restaurant on site. The choice if you want classic European luxury and a doorman who remembers your name.
Nimb Hotel
38 rooms inside Tivoli Gardens’ Moorish-style Nimb palace. Step out of your room and into the gardens. Magic at Christmas.
Hotel Sanders
54-room boutique behind the Royal Danish Theater. Residential English country-house feel, intimate bar, the prettiest mid-luxury hotel in town.
Manon Les Suites by Guldsmeden
Indoor jungle-style pool, organic minibar, Balinese-meets-Nordic design. Quietly one of the best-designed mid-priced hotels in the city.
Hotel Skt. Petri
Once an old department store, now a design hotel with a courtyard bar locals actually drink at. Walk to anything in 10 minutes.
STAY Apartments Copenhagen
Self-catering studios and apartments with proper kitchens. Modern building on the harbor, swim from your doorstep in summer.
Adina Apartment Hotel
Reliable serviced-apartment chain with full kitchens, washer-dryer, gym. The smart pick for stays longer than 3 nights or families.
Generator Copenhagen
Bunks from €35; private rooms from €80. Great bar, beautiful courtyard, the social hostel that pretends to be a design hotel.
Urban House
Hostel-meets-hotel right by Central Station. Bunks, capsules and private rooms. Tattoo parlour and bike rental in the lobby.
Hotel Alexandra
Each room furnished with original mid-century Danish design — Arne Jacobsen, Hans Wegner, Finn Juhl. A staying-in-a-design-museum experience.
Geranium
Three Michelin stars; Rasmus Kofoed’s vegetable-forward tasting menu. Currently the highest-ranked Nordic restaurant in the world. Book months ahead.
Alchemist
Two Michelin stars; Rasmus Munk’s 50-impression theatrical tasting menu in a domed building. A six-hour culinary experience, not a meal.
Noma
René Redzepi’s defining restaurant. Seasonal menus rotate three times a year — seafood, vegetable, game. Closing as a restaurant in 2025 but the lab continues.
Schoenneman
The classic Danish lunch institution. Smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) on rye, herring, schnapps. Where Danish executives still go for two-hour lunches.
Restaurant Kronborg
Wood-panelled smørrebrød specialist, family-run since 1995. The traditional Danish lunch experience locals send their parents to.
Aamanns 1921
Smørrebrød reimagined for the modern era. Bookable, lighter and finer than the old-school spots. The best introduction if you only try smørrebrød once.
Restaurant Barr
In the old Noma space, on the canal. Schnitzel, brews, comfort Nordic. From the Noma team but unstuffy.
Bistro Pastis
French bistro classics done right — steak frites, escargot, st-emilion by the glass. Where Copenhageners go when they want zero surprises.
Café Victor
The Parisian-style brasserie on the corner of Ny Østergade since the 1980s. Avocado-and-smoked-salmon toast, Eggs Royal, properly strong coffee. The crowd is Copenhagen’s media, finance and political class — you’ll spot familiar Danish faces.
Sit by the huge windows and watch the city pass.
Vibe Politicians, businessmen, journalists
Skt. Peders Bageri
Copenhagen’s oldest bakery, since 1652. Five minutes walk from Café Victor. Cardamom-and-cinnamon “onsdagssnegl” (Wednesday snail) is a city institution — locals queue out the door.
Cheap, quick, properly Danish. Take coffee and a pastry to a bench in Købmagergade.
Vibe Budget, walk-up bakery
Joe & The Juice
Born in Copenhagen in 2002, now global. Their scrambled-egg “Tunacado” sandwich and fresh-pressed juices are still the cheapest, fastest breakfast in town. The Bredgade flagship is the original.
Cash on tap, no fuss, half the city eats here on the way to work.
Vibe Quick, healthy, founded here
Hart Bageri
Chef Thomas Frebel’s bakery (ex-Noma). Sourdough, croissants and arguably the best cinnamon snail in Denmark. Stand-up counter only — grab and walk to Frederiksberg Have.
Vibe Ex-Noma bakery
Mirabelle
From the Relae group. Cardamom buns from their own bakery, perfect eggs, the best morning coffee in the city. The Nørrebro local’s breakfast.
Vibe Local-favorite bakery-cafe
Atelier September
The Instagram avocado toast that started the craze in Denmark. Still excellent. Tiny, gets crowded by 10am — arrive at 8 or accept the wait.
Vibe Cool minimalist cafe
Mad og Kaffe
Pick three, five or seven small plates from a menu of breakfast classics — eggs, bacon, granola, smoked salmon. Affordable by Copenhagen standards. Always packed for a reason.
Vibe Tapas-style brunch
Bobi Bar
Tiny dark-wood bar serving Copenhagen since 1916. Smoking still allowed, lighting still terrible, debate still loud — mostly Danes, mostly politics, occasionally a writer or actor at the bar. Old-school bartenders, perfect martinis, cash only.
The kind of place locals send friends on their first night.
Vibe Old-school, smoky, locals only
Vinstue 90
Classic Copenhagen brown bar from the 1920s — cheap table wine, the famous “slow beer” (uncarbonated Carlsberg poured for 15 minutes), smoke-allowed interior, red lamps, characterful regulars. Local intelligentsia and journalists drink here on weekdays. Genuinely unchanged in decades.
Vibe Cheap wine, journalists, intellectuals
Café Intime
1913 cabaret-style piano bar with live performances most nights — jazz pianists, drag, opera amateurs, regulars singing along. Velvet booths, candlelight, theatrical energy, an LGBTQ+-friendly crowd that’s been a fixture for a century. Unique experience you won’t find anywhere else in the city.
Vibe Live cabaret, sing-along, theatrical
The Library Bar (Copenhagen Plaza)
Behind discreet doors at the 1913 Copenhagen Plaza, literally across from Central Station. Named one of the world’s 5 best hotel bars by Forbes. Dark wood, antique books, Chesterfield armchairs, a pianist plays jazz on quieter nights.
World-class cocktails. The hidden one you ask about.
Vibe Forbes 5-best, Chesterfield, jazz
Ved Stranden 10
Canal-side natural wine bar in an 18th-century building. Sit outside in summer with a bottle of something orange and watch the boats pass. The most romantic drink in Copenhagen.
Vibe Canalside, natural wine
LIDKOEB
Three floors in a courtyard building, the top one a hidden whisky bar. Award-winning cocktails, vintage interiors. The bar Copenhageners take dates they want to impress.
Vibe Hidden three-floor cocktail bar
Brus
From the Toøl brewery. 33 taps of experimental Danish beer, sourdough pizza, brutalist concrete interior. Loud and good.
Vibe Industrial brewpub
Jazzhouse
Copenhagen’s main jazz venue since 1991. Nightly programming from local trios to international names. Have dinner first, walk in for the late set.
Vibe Live jazz
Culture Box
The serious electronic-music club. Underground techno and house, world-class sound system, runs late. Go after midnight or don’t go.
Vibe Techno club
The Standard Rooftop (Apollo Bar)
On top of the old ferry terminal. 360-degree view of the harbor, Nyhavn and the Opera House. Sunset cocktails in summer.
View Harbor + Opera
Restaurant Allegade 10
Garden + rooftop above a residential street. Wood-fired pizza, local crowd, no pretension. Hidden gem locals keep to themselves.
View Frederiksberg rooftops
Cph Marriott Skybar
25th-floor view across the harbor. Touristy but the view at golden hour is unbeatable, and they make a serious martini.
View Full city panorama
Kødbyens Fiskebar
Inside a former meat-packing hall. Whole grilled fish, oysters by the dozen, natural wine. The seafood place locals book for a Friday.
Slurp Ramen Joint
Counter-only ramen with daily seafood specials — tuna belly, mackerel, salmon roe. The chef trained in Tokyo. Lunchtime queues.
Gilleleje Havn Fish Market
Working fishing port with stalls selling whatever came off the boats that morning. Smoked salmon, smoked mackerel, herring sandwiches eaten at the harbor wall.
















