Kenya Travel Guide: Nairobi, Masai Mara, Lamu in 2026

Kenya replaced its visa with an Electronic Travel Authorisation (eTA) in January 2024 — it's now mandatory for nearly all non-East-African travelers, including all EU/Nordic countries, the UK, US, Canada, Australia, Japan, and Russia. Apply at etakenya.go.ke at least 72 hours before travel (processing typically 24–48 hours; pay extra for express). Cost: $30 USD (plus a small service fee), valid for one entry, 90 days. Passport valid 6 months beyond entry, 2 blank pages. East African Tourist Visa ($100, valid 90 days) is the smarter choice if you're combining Kenya with Uganda and/or Rwanda — single application, multiple entries between the three countries, common for gorilla-trekking combos. Yellow fever certificate required if arriving from a yellow-fever-endemic country (most of sub-Saharan Africa, parts of South America). Children under 16 are exempt from eTA but still need to be listed on a parent's family eTA. East African Community citizens (Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi, South Sudan) enter visa-free.

Kenya has two distinct dry seasons and two wet seasons. July to October is the headline window — the Great Migration of 1.5 million wildebeest reaches the Maasai Mara from the Serengeti, with the dramatic Mara River crossings peaking late July to early September. Visibility is best with dry vegetation, animals concentrate at waterholes. January and February are the second dry season — calving season in the Mara, fewer crowds, lower prices, equally excellent game viewing without the migration drama. Avoid the long rains (March–May) — roads in the Mara become mud, some camps close, low season prices but game viewing harder. Short rains (November–December) are workable — light afternoon showers, lush green landscapes, excellent for photographers, dramatically cheaper. Coast (Diani, Lamu, Mombasa) is best December to March (warm, dry, no monsoon) and July to October (cooler, breezy). Peak migration camps in the Mara (Governors', Angama, Mara Plains) book 12–18 months ahead.

10–12 days minimum for a proper Kenya safari, fly between parks rather than drive (saves 1–2 days each leg). Maasai Mara (3–4 nights): the headline — the Great Migration if July–October, year-round Big Five viewing, walking safaris in the conservancies (Mara North, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi) which are quieter than the central reserve. Amboseli (2 nights): classic elephants with Kilimanjaro as backdrop — the iconic Kenya image. Best in dry season for dust-free Kili views (Jul–Oct, Jan–Feb). Ol Pejeta or Lewa (2 nights): the rhino conservancies — Ol Pejeta hosts the last two northern white rhinos on Earth and the chimpanzee sanctuary; Lewa is more exclusive. Samburu (2 nights, optional): the dry north — reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, gerenuk, the "Samburu Special Five" found nowhere else. Lake Nakuru (1 night, optional): flamingos and rhinos. Combine with: Diani Beach (1 hr flight) for post-safari coast, or fly to Kigali (Rwanda) for gorilla trekking. Book through a specialist operator — DIY is harder than in Tanzania.

The safari circuit (Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Ol Pejeta, Samburu, Nakuru, Tsavo, Laikipia) is well-managed and routine for the 2+ million tourists arriving annually — the lodges and conservancies operate at international standards, with armed rangers, communication systems, and consistent infrastructure. Coast resorts (Diani, Lamu, Watamu) similarly low-risk. Nairobi requires standard urban caution: don't walk Westlands or CBD at night, use Uber not street taxis, keep phones out of sight in matatus (minibuses), pre-arrange transfers from JKIA airport. Avoid the northeast (Kenya-Somalia border, Garissa, Mandera, Wajir) entirely — most government advisories list these as Level 4 "do not travel" due to Al-Shabaab activity. Lamu Island is safe (the mainland coast north of Malindi has the advisory). Health: malaria prophylaxis required for safari areas and coast (not Nairobi); yellow fever certificate; bottled water; standard travel medical kit. Tip: Carry small USD notes for park entrances if your operator hasn't pre-paid (KES not always accepted at gates), and brief tips for camp staff (typically $10–15/day for rangers, $5–10/day for camp staff).

Kenya safari prices vary enormously by tier — knowing the brackets prevents sticker shock. Mid-range lodges and tented camps (Mara Sopa, Ashnil Mara, Sentrim Amboseli, Sweetwaters at Ol Pejeta): $300–500/person/night all-inclusive (room, all meals, game drives, park fees in some packages). Premium safari camps (Mara Intrepids, Kicheche, Porini, Saruni): $700–1,200/person/night — smaller, conservancy locations, expert guides, walking safaris. Top-tier flying safaris (Angama Mara, Mara Plains, Cottar's 1920s, Sirikoi, Segera): $1,500–3,500/person/night — the cinematic version, with the views and service to match. Park fees (Maasai Mara $200/day in high season, Amboseli $100, Ol Pejeta $90) and conservancy fees ($100–150/day on top) are usually separate. Internal flights (Wilson Airport — Air Kenya, Safarilink, AirKenya Express) — $200–400 per leg. 10-day premium safari budget: $7,000–15,000/person all-in. Mid-range 10-day: $3,500–6,000/person. Self-drive is possible but adds logistical risk most travelers avoid. Tipping: $10–15/day for the guide, $5–10/day for camp staff.