Nice: A First-Timer's Guide to the French Riviera's Belle Époque Capital
Nice is the French Riviera capital that travelers consistently underestimate as a stopover between Monaco and Cannes — actually the largest and most architecturally serious Côte d'Azur city, with the iconic Promenade des Anglais, the Cours Saleya market, the Matisse and Chagall museums, and reliable 13°C December winter weather.
The recent reinvention has been substantial. Hôtel du Couvent opened in 2024 as Nice's most architecturally serious new luxury opening in a generation — a former convent turned into a 88-room Relais & Châteaux. Le 109, the contemporary arts complex in the former slaughterhouses, has matured into a proper alternative cultural anchor. The Libération market hill is now the city's natural-wine and small-restaurant district. Combine all that with the Matisse and Chagall museums (both world-class), the Castle Hill walk for sunset, and the easy day-trips to Èze, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Monaco — and Nice earns a long weekend on its own terms, not just as a Côte d'Azur landing strip.
Quick facts
Live right now
Where to base yourself
First-time visitor? Pick a neighborhood that matches your vibe and stay there.
Vieux Nice
The painted-Italian old town
The historical centre — narrow medieval lanes, painted Italian-yellow facades, the daily Cours Saleya market, Place Rossetti with its iconic ice cream shops, the Genoese cathedral. Pedestrianised, packed with restaurants, properly atmospheric.
Promenade des Anglais & Carré d'Or
Belle Époque grandeur
The 7-km palm-lined seafront and the Belle Époque district behind it — the Hotel Negresco, the Le Méridien, the major Belle Époque mansions, the grand hotels with their iconic blue chairs along the Prom. Where every first-time visitor walks at least once.
Cimiez
Hilltop museum quarter
Above the city centre on the Cimiez hill — the Musée Matisse and the Musée Chagall, plus a Roman amphitheatre and a Franciscan monastery with cypress-shaded gardens. Quieter, leafier, more residential.
Libération
Nice's natural-wine and creative hill
Inland from the Gare du Sud — the rising creative quarter, with the daily Libération market, natural-wine bars (the city's best), small-restaurant openings, and a younger Niçoise crowd that doesn't go to the Prom. The smartest stay for repeat visitors.
Le Port
The fishing-port-turned-creative neighbourhood
East of Castle Hill — the Lympia Port (Nice's old harbour), with the antique dealers' street (Rue Cassini), small wine bars and seafood restaurants on the quays, and the ferry terminal to Corsica. Less touristy than Vieux Nice, more lived-in.
Where to stay
The city's defining new opening, 2024. A 17th-century convent on the slope above Vieux Nice, restored as an 88-room Relais & Châteaux — vast walled gardens with kitchen herbs and citrus trees, an underground Roman-style thermal bath, the most ambitious Mediterranean food program at any new Riviera hotel.
“The Hôtel du Couvent review on Locals Insider has more.”
Nice's pink-domed 1913 grande dame on the Prom — 124 rooms, art collection by 5,000 works, the Chantecler dining room and the Hôtel Negresco bell-hop uniforms unchanged in 70 years. Properly old-world.
“Stay one night for the experience.”
The former Hôtel La Pérouse Nice reopened under Anantara — a Belle Époque mansion on the edge of Place Massena, 151 rooms, rooftop restaurant with the panorama of the Promenade and the bay.
“The new-luxury stay for Nice that's neither Negresco nor du Couvent.”
The Paris Hôtel Amour brand opened a Nice outpost — a 1920s villa with 38 rooms of contemporary art and quirky vintage interiors, plus the buzzy Café Amour for daytime crowds.
“Younger, more design-led than the Prom hotels.”
Set into Castle Hill with the sea immediately below — 56 rooms, a heated outdoor pool tucked into the rock face, and one of the few hotels in central Nice without traffic noise.
“Walking distance down to Vieux Nice.”
A Belle Époque building transformed into one of the city's most ambitious design hotels — black marble interiors, indoor pool in the basement spa, rooftop restaurant.
“Where the contemporary art and design crowd stays.”
Where to eat
Two Michelin stars. Inside the Negresco — chef Virginie Basselot's classical French haute cuisine in a properly grand dining room with 17th-century tapestries.
“The orthodox Nice fine-dining.”
Two Michelin stars. South African chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen cooks an inventive tasting menu in a small, intimate Le Port room — Provençal ingredients, his own design sensibility, properly distinctive.
“The most exciting fine dining in the city.”
The Niçoise classic that exported itself to London, Dubai, Doha — but the original is still here. Tomato salads, courgette flowers, daube de boeuf, all on white tablecloths, all impeccable.
“Where Riviera's old-money lunches.”
A genuine Niçoise tasca — wood-panelled, family-run since 1927, white-tableclothed tables packed close. Daube niçoise, raviolis maison, the proper local cooking. No website, no tourist concessions.
“Cash usually preferred.”
Armand Crespo's modern Niçoise — short menu, blackboard specials, full-throated Provençal cooking with a careful hand.
“The smart-dinner choice for the Vieux Nice.”
Museums worth your time
In a 17th-century Genoese villa on the Cimiez hill — Henri Matisse's largest collection. Matisse lived in Nice for 37 years; the museum holds his works from across his career, plus his late paper cut-outs.
“Free on the first Sunday of each month.”
Visit website →Built specifically to house Chagall's 17 large biblical-message paintings — the artist himself chose the building's design with the architect André Hermant. The natural light in the main hall is part of the work.
“Don't miss the stained-glass auditorium.”
Visit website →Nice's main modern-and-contemporary museum — strong on Nouveau Réalisme (the Niçoise-based French movement, including Yves Klein and César), plus rotating exhibitions. Free entry to the permanent collection.
“Rooftop sculpture terrace.”
Visit website →Nice's contemporary arts complex in the former municipal slaughterhouse — galleries, artist studios, performance space, occasional restaurants. The alternative cultural pole to the museums.
“Programme is irregular, check the schedule.”
Visit website →The 92-metre hill at the east end of Vieux Nice — ruins of the medieval castle (destroyed by Louis XIV), an artificial waterfall, sculpture-dotted gardens, and Nice's best view across the Baie des Anges.
“Walk up or take the free elevator from Le Port.”
Only-here places
Nice's daily flower-and-produce market in the heart of Vieux Nice — running since 1861, Tuesday through Sunday until 1 p.m. Flowers, Provençal honey, herbs, soap, plus the cheese and charcuterie stands at the western end. Monday is the antique market.
“The single most photographed scene in Nice.”
Walk the full 7 km, or at least the central kilometre from the Negresco to Place Massena. The pebble beach below, the iconic blue chairs lining the sand, the palms, the Belle Époque facades behind.
“The Nice you came for.”
Inland from the Gare du Sud — Tuesday through Sunday morning, the market the Niçoise locals actually use for daily shopping. Cheaper than Cours Saleya, deeper into proper Provence-Niçoise products.
“Combine with lunch in one of the wine bars on the surrounding streets.”
The most photogenic of the perched medieval villages on the Côte d'Azur — a tight stone village clinging to a 400-metre cliff, with a 12th-century church, a cactus garden at the top, and the panorama over the Riviera.
“20 minutes by car or bus 82/112 from Nice.”
The walled hilltop village where Marc Chagall lived and is buried — plus the Fondation Maeght, France's most important small modern-art museum (Miró, Calder, Giacometti, Chagall sculptures in the garden).
“40 minutes from Nice.”
Tours & things to do in Nice
In partnership with GetYourGuide, Locals Insider recommends these tours and things to do in Nice.
Nature & quiet
Free, with sculpture-lined paths, an artificial waterfall, and the best Nice panorama.
“Take the elevator up from Le Port or walk.”
A 191-metre forested headland east of Le Port — walking trails with sea views in three directions, the Fort du Mont Alban at the top.
“The local Sunday walk.”
A 12-hectare green strip carved through central Nice in 2013 — fountains, play areas, sculpture, gardens.
“The city's central park, deserved and used.”
The grand 19th-century formal garden at the foot of the Prom — palm trees, fountains, occasional outdoor sculpture.
“The classic Nice promenade-rest spot.”
City festivals
- FebruaryNice Carnival (Carnaval de Nice)
France's biggest carnival — two weeks in February, with float parades, the Bataille de Fleurs (flower battle) on Promenade des Anglais, evening light parades. One of the three biggest carnivals in Europe, alongside Venice and Cologne.
- JulyNice Jazz Festival
Among Europe's oldest and most respected jazz festivals — five days in mid-July, performances in the open-air Théâtre de Verdure and on the Place Massena. Major international names plus French jazz.
- SeptemberSeptembre de la Photo
Photography festival across Nice's galleries and the city's outdoor walls — installations, talks, exhibitions. Quieter than the Arles Rencontres but properly curated.
- MayFestival d'Art Sacré
Spring sacred-music festival in the city's churches — choral music, baroque ensembles, Provençal traditional music. Intimate and properly programmed.
Travel safety & inclusivity
Nice is one of the safer larger French cities. The Promenade des Anglais and Vieux Nice are safe day and night. Standard urban awareness for pickpocketing applies, especially in summer on the Prom and in busy market areas. Solo travel — including for women in the central areas at evening — is fine.
France has comprehensive LGBTQ+ legal protections, including same-sex marriage since 2013. Nice has a visible LGBTQ+ scene concentrated in Vieux Nice and around Le Port. Lou Queernaval, attached to Nice Carnival in February, was France's first LGBTQ+ carnival event. Visible affection in central tourist areas is completely normal.
Safety scores reflect UK FCDO & US State Department travel advisories. LGBTQ+ scores reflect Equaldex and ILGA-Europe rankings. Both refreshed quarterly.
Frequently asked about Nice
Where do locals eat in Nice?
Three picks across the spectrum of how Niçois actually eat — and Nice has a distinctive cuisine separate from the broader Provençal traditions.
For the iconic Niçois institution: Acchiardo, at 38 Rue Droite, 06300 Nice in Vieux Nice. The family-run bistrot since 1927 — the most-cited Niçois traditional restaurant. Properly serious Niçois classics (the iconic farcis niçois — stuffed vegetables, the soupe au pistou, ratatouille, the daïoube de bœuf braised beef). Reservations recommended. Cash only.
For the modern, fine-dining pick: La Petite Maison, at 11 Rue Saint-François-de-Paule, 06300 Nice. Founded in 1988 by Nicole Rubi — Nice's iconic family-run modern Niçois-Mediterranean restaurant. Now with branches in London, Dubai, Cannes, Hong Kong, Miami; the original Nice flagship is the destination. Reservations essential.
For the affordable, locals' standard: Fenocchio, at 2 Place Rossetti, 06300 Nice. Nice's most famous gelateria — 100+ flavours including the iconic Niçois specialties (lavender, olive oil, tomato-basil, the violet flavour). Walk-in only; the queue moves fast. For Niçois street food, the iconic socca (chickpea-flour pancake) is the order at Chez Pipo at 13 Rue Bavastro in the port area.
Where can I get the best seafood with champagne or sparkling wine in Nice?
For Nice seafood with serious Champagne and Provençal sparkling wines, the destination is La Mérenda, at 4 Rue Raoul Bosio, 06300 Nice in Vieux Nice.
The iconic 20-seat traditional Niçois restaurant — owned by Dominique Le Stanc (former chef of the Negresco's two-Michelin-star Chantecler restaurant who chose to operate this tiny, no-phone, no-credit-cards counter restaurant). Properly serious daily seafood from the Mediterranean (pissaladière, stockfish stew, the iconic tomato pie). No reservations by phone — must walk in or schedule in person.
For a more refined alternative with serious Champagne service, Le Chantecler at the Hotel Negresco (covered below) is the formal Niçois fine-dining destination. For a casual seafood-and-wine alternative, L'Ane Rouge at 7 Quai des Deux Emmanuel, 06300 Nice is the long-running fish-and-wine bistro on the port with serious wine list.
Which historical boutique hotel should I stay at in Nice?
For an old-world historical stay in Nice, the reference is Hôtel Negresco, at 37 Promenade des Anglais, 06000 Nice.
Opened in 1913 by Romanian-born hotelier Henri Negresco on the iconic Promenade des Anglais — Nice's most famous historic luxury hotel. The pink-and-white facade with the iconic Belle Époque dome (modelled on Negresco's mistress's breast, by some accounts) is among the most-photographed buildings in Nice. Guest list across the decades includes Coco Chanel, Salvador Dalí, the Burton-Taylor power couple, Audrey Hepburn, Picasso, Frank Sinatra, and most European royalty. 124 rooms, each individually decorated with antiques. The two-Michelin-star Le Chantecler restaurant and the iconic Bar des Anges continue the heritage.
Pricing from around €400/night. Bookings via the official site. For a smaller boutique alternative, Le Méridien Nice at 1 Promenade des Anglais or Hôtel La Pérouse at 11 Quai Rauba Capeu (a 60-room boutique built into the cliffside under Castle Hill with the most cinematic outdoor pool in Nice and direct sea views) are the contemporary alternatives.
What is the LGBTQ+ scene like in Nice?
France legalised same-sex marriage in 2013. Nice has a smaller but properly established LGBTQ+ scene compared to Paris or Marseille. Pink Parade Côte d'Azur (Pride Nice) takes place in late July.
The neighborhood: There is no defined gay quarter in Nice. Vieux Nice and the area around Place Garibaldi have the highest concentration of LGBTQ+-friendly bars and cafés. The Nice gay scene is famously concentrated around the small area of "Le Petit Marais" between Vieux Nice and the modern centre.
The bars and clubs: Le Glam at 6 Rue Eugène Emanuel, 06000 Nice is the iconic Nice gay nightclub — multiple themed nights, the city's most-cited late-night destination. Smarties Bar at 10 Rue Defly is the contemporary cocktail-bar alternative.
Saunas: Le 7 Sauna at 1 Rue Gioffredo, 06000 Nice is the central men's sauna. The iconic Nice gay beach is Plage des Coco (between Coco Beach and the Rauba Capeu area at the east end of the Promenade des Anglais) — the long-established LGBTQ+-friendly stretch.
What unique small museum, new 2024-2026 landmark, or 1-3 day itinerary should I plan for Nice?
The famous-person small museum: Musée Matisse, at 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez, 06000 Nice. Dedicated to Henri Matisse, who lived in Nice from 1917 until his death in 1954 (he chose Nice for the legendary light). The 17th-century Villa des Arènes contains the largest single-collection of Matisse works in the world — paintings, drawings, sculptures, and the iconic cut-out paper works from his late period. Free admission. Closed Tuesdays. Pair with the iconic Musée National Marc Chagall at 36 Avenue Dr Ménard, 06000 Nice — Chagall's own museum, conceived by the artist and built in 1973 specifically to house his Biblical Message painting cycle. Free admission.
The recent landmark: Promenade du Paillon at the centre of Nice — the 12-hectare landscape park built over the buried Paillon River, fully completed in 2013 and continuously expanded. Connects Place Masséna to the Acropolis Convention Centre with botanical gardens, fountains, and the iconic Miroir d'Eau (water mirror — the largest in Europe at 3,000 square metres). Among the most architecturally significant urban regeneration projects on the French Riviera. Free, 24-hour public access.
1-3 day itinerary: Day 1 — Vieux Nice (Cours Saleya morning market, Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate, Castle Hill climb for the panorama, lunch at Acchiardo). Day 2 — Cimiez (Musée Matisse, Musée Chagall, the Roman amphitheatre ruins), evening on the Promenade des Anglais. Day 3 — Day trip via the iconic Train des Pignes to Èze village (35 minutes east on the Corniche), then to Monaco (15 minutes further) for the Casino and Old Town, or to Antibes-Juan-les-Pins for the Picasso Museum.
Planning more than just Nice? Our France travel guide covers the whole country — weather and currency live, hotels and restaurants across regions, must-visit experiences and where else to go.
Articles in this section are written by the Locals Insider editorial team. Got a Nice tip we missed? Email us at hello@localsinsider.com — we read every one.
