This Morocco guide for LocalsInsider was prepared by Maria Pushkarskaya. A graduate of MGIMO’s Faculty of Journalism, she has been living in Berlin for several years, working in marketing and communications. Travel is her constant passion: she began with trips across Europe and now explores farther-flung destinations on other continents, sharing her routes and discoveries along the way.
Before heading to Morocco, it’s worth deciding which Morocco you want to see. There are several options: laid-back surf towns with an international vibe, historic medinas steeped in tradition, or the desert itself.
We had ten days, and our route ended up with two distinct parts. First, we crisscrossed the old northern cities—using just about every form of transport along the way—and made a stop in Casablanca. Then we flew south to learn how to surf. The desert, for now, was left untouched; it deserves a separate two or three days on its own.
Here’s how our journey unfolded, step by step.
First Stop: Tangier
Where to Stay: The best option is to rent authentic local houses known as riads. In Tangier, we were lucky to find a place that wasn’t at all touristy, yet still close to the center.
The house was a variation on traditional Moroccan living, but with creative twists—think Bowie posters scattered across the walls alongside tiled arches and painted doors.
What to See: Like every historic Moroccan city, Tangier has its old quarter—the medina. You can cover it in a day.
Be cautious with local guides: in Morocco, the line between a friendly walk and a hard sell is almost invisible. We, for example, somehow ended up in a three-story carpet shop, trying to politely decline one offer after another.
Vendors also expect you to bargain—if you don’t, many take it as an insult. So if you have no interest in buying, it’s better to say no directly from the start.
One of the most memorable stops was a traditional Berber pharmacy—you’ll find plenty around the city, often right next to European-style chemists. Of course, the goal is to sell you everything under the sun, but along the way you get a crash course in oils, herbs, and local remedies.
To really feel Tangier’s atmosphere, head to Café Hafa in the evening. Opened in 1921, it has barely changed since. From its tiered terraces you get sweeping views of the Strait of Gibraltar, with Spain and the town of Tarifa shimmering in the distance. By nightfall, locals pack the place, smoking and sipping the signature sweet mint tea.
When it comes to food, some of the best meals we had in Tangier—and in Morocco overall—came from the most unassuming local cafés. Step away from the tourist center and look for the ones with plastic chairs crowded with diners. That’s where you’ll eat best.
And then, diving. One of our friends had long dreamed of a dive, so we arranged a trip with a company just outside Tangier. The transfer from the city turned into a twofold experience: the dive itself (pros might find the reef modest) and a long, engaging conversation with the owner on the road there and back.
Second Stop: Fez
We set out for Fez in a rental car, stopping along the way in Chefchaouen—a small northern town famous for its bright blue alleyways. It’s considered one of the most photogenic spots in the country, which makes it easy to guess just how tourist-heavy it is.
It’s worth a quick stop, but spending the night isn’t necessary.
The route itself is comfortable in terms of distance, but you need to be a confident driver. In the cities, traffic is pure chaos—crowds everywhere, pedestrians crossing at any time and from any direction. Outside the urban sprawl, the road can suddenly be blocked by herds of sheep, goats, or cows.
Where to Stay: In the medina, of course. Staying inside the old city feels like stepping into another dimension altogether. This time, we rented a riad that was fully traditional, complete with a beautiful rooftop terrace.
The house itself was stunning, but the overly packaged tourist service that came with it was a bit of a drawback.
In Fez, you need to dive into the life of the medina and dedicate at least a full day to exploring it. Right inside the old city stands al-Qarawiyyin University, founded in 869 and recognized as the oldest continuously operating university in the world.
The medina is also home to centuries-old workshops: you can watch leatherworkers at the tanneries, see pottery being fired, or observe artisans practicing traditional wood carving.
Third Stop: Casablanca
From Fez, we took the train to Casablanca—a smooth three to four hours. We booked tickets online a little in advance, which made things easy.
Where to Stay: Casablanca doesn’t have many riads or distinctive guesthouses, so we kept it simple and chose a hotel close to the Hassan II Mosque.
And really, that’s the main reason to stop in the city. The mosque is open to visitors only in the first half of the day. We hadn’t booked tickets ahead of time—just waited about 30 minutes in line at the entrance.
In terms of atmosphere, Casablanca feels nothing like Fez or Tangier. The city is far more modern, and its medina is skippable—it doesn’t offer much of note.
Fourth Stop: Agadir (though we stayed in the charming village of Taghazout)
Where to Stay: In a surf camp, of course. We stayed at Surf Coast and couldn’t have been happier. The camp sits right on the oceanfront—windows and the terrace open onto an incredible view of the waves.
Every morning, surfers are split into two groups—beginners and more advanced riders—and driven out to different spots along the coast. Not once did we repeat a beach, which meant we ended up seeing stretches of shoreline all along the region.
In the afternoons, there’s a rotating menu of activities: a trip into Agadir, a visit to a hammam, and even an excursion into the desert for those who want it.
At sunrise and sunset, yoga sessions take place on the rooftop terrace overlooking the ocean. The camp has a wonderfully international vibe—we met people from across Europe. Many stay for a week or longer with one goal in mind: to really learn how to surf.
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