Central America: a beautifully tropical and insanely diverse section of land. It incorporates seven countries, links two continents, and borders two oceans.
From Belize to Panama, the route is well-traveled, equally enticing to both backpackers and recent retirees. Like any popular destination, it would be easy to follow the crowd and a strict itinerary, yet those willing to take a detour will be rewarded.
A quick online search recommends the cities, the National Parks and long lists of paid attractions. Yet if you look beyond these well-trodden paths; take the advice of a local, avoid the queues, choose authenticity over popularity; you might just find somewhere new. Somewhere surprising. Somewhere that hasn’t yet been shared on social media.
After six months of living like a local throughout Central America, here are my recommendations for the best seaside towns – and the hidden spots that each has to offer. From the surf pounding the Pacific coast to the contagious chill of the Caribbean, you’ll experience the epitome that these seven small, but mighty, countries have to offer.
Belize
The beauty in Belize lies offshore, just a short ferry ride from Belize City. Avoid the crowds and head straight for Caye Caulker, where the locals always outweigh the tourists.
Step off the boat and be greeted by reggae music and jerk chicken, but make sure you take time to get off the main drag and explore the back streets. Our budget-friendly accommodation included bikes, making it easy to zip up and down the island and find the quieter spots. You could spend the whole time drinking rum punch at the Lazy Lizard, but here are our recommendations to really make the most of your time there.
- Caye Caulker boasts incredible sea life and there are two spots where you can experience this without even having to dip a toe in the water. You can witness the enormous tarpon fish here, and equally impressive sting rays and seahorses here. Top tip: hang around at the hotel afterwards for sunset, sundowners and a swim – the ocean swing is not to missed.
- You’re sure to have worked up an appetite and our recommendation for a hidden spot would be Jenny’s Take Out. You can’t visit Belize without trying the Fry Jacks, and Jenny’s are insane. For pudding, prepare to be amazed at Chef Juan’s Kitchen and Pastries: the key lime pie is out of this world.
El Salvador
The smallest country in Central America, El Salvador packs a lot of punch for its size. From surfing world-class point breaks to the delicious $1 pupusas, what’s not to love about spending time by the ocean here?
La Libertad is a good place to start, just a short Uber (or chicken bus) ride away from the international airport. Every bus stop is complete with a fresh fruit stall and cool boxes of Coca-Colas, with the smells of fried chicken and tortillas in the air.
We stayed at this insanely good value Airbnb just out of town, with a panoramic view of the ocean from its private balcony. The owner was awesome too, giving us plenty of invaluable insights on the best surf spots, cocktail bars and local food stalls.
- La Posada de Don Lito is perfect for its sea view, cocktail menu and access to the ocean from the corner of their seating area. Surfers can jump straight in whilst spectators enjoy their sundowners – the margaritas are the best I’ve had since Mexico.
- If you’re after some dinner, head just around the corner to Kiosko Cristy and order the surf and turf burger with a local beer. It’s a match made in heaven.
San Diego is an offshoot to La Libertad, and worth a stay for a night or two for the experience alone. It’s dirt roads and stray dogs as soon as you leave the highway and a stay here will allow you to immerse yourself in the true El Salvadorian local life. You’ll see women rolling out dough and frying tortillas in the streets, whilst homes sell beers and chips from their front doors. One family invited us in, and we shared a beer and a conversation in broken English, surrounded by their litter of kittens.
The town of El Tunco delivers a less local, more resort feel but it’s worth a visit for the $1 pupusas alone. Pupuseria El Sol was our local recommendation: fill your boots and roll yourself to the beach after. $6 will be enough for two people and include a fresh juice to wash it down.
Nicaragua
More well known for its colonial cities than its coastline, we left León to spend time in St Juan del Sur and think you should too.
- El Pacifico Hotel is a budget-friendly accommodation option. With an outdoor pool, bar and delicious local breakfast included in the price, the howler monkeys you can hear all over the property are just another bonus. It’s a three-minute walk to the beach, and another ten further on into ‘town’. However, we picked it for its close proximity to…
- Vista del Cristo: a 24m high statue of Jesus, offering an insane 360-degree view of the bay from its elevated outlook. It was a steep fifteen-minute walk from our hotel, and there’s a $3 entry fee, but it was worth the trek. The views are phenomenal, and there’s a snack shop to reward yourself with too. However, our recommendation would be to hold onto your appetite and head down to the beach for a sunset dinner at…
- El Timon. With your feet in the sand and the sky putting on a show, enjoy the happy hour piña coladas and the restaurant’s oceanfront fire pits. Order some seafood, you won’t be disappointed.
Costa Rica
Everyone has heard of this Central American country, and for good reason. The surfing is world-class, the wildlife is incredible and the National Parks are some of the most biodiverse places on earth. But Costa Rica is also known for its price tag, and it’s difficult to find anything that doesn’t come with a hefty one. But that’s where our local tips come in…
Dominical has a lot to offer. It’s already popular with expats and backpackers, boasting incredible surfing and tons of good dining options. Our favorite hangout was Fuego Coffee Roasting Company, with beans grown in the surrounding mountains. They have their own brewery too, if you’re that way inclined.
However if you’re looking for hidden local-only spots, don’t miss these in the Dominical area. You’ll need to rent a car but they’re worth it, trust us.
- Waterfalls are aplenty in Costa Rica but free ones are not. Head to this little-known swimming hole, accessed by a tiny trail hidden in the forest to spend an afternoon swimming under the falls with the locals. Bonus: it’s stunning, and free.
- Most tourists will flock to the National Parks to spot wildlife but that means always competing for a spot at the front of the crowd. Head to Playa Guápil to have a place all to yourself. Turn off the highway at Hacienda Baru and keep driving down the dirt track. You’ll come to the end of the ‘road’ and reach the definition of a deserted beach. You can spend the day with a hammock strung beneath the palm trees, dipping in and out of the ocean, or make use of the hotel’s nature trails. Whatever you do, keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. The only living things you’ll be sharing this spot with are troops of monkeys, peccaries and coatis.
Top tip: look out for the fallen coconuts – you can fill your rental car boot and sip on nature’s finest electrolytes.
Don’t miss hopping over to the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica for an entirely different experience.
- Lunch in Puerto Viejo will provide you with the perfect introduction. Tamara is the oldest, and most recommended, restaurant in town. Try the ceviche and guanabana juice, the perfect antidote to the heat.
- Punta Uva provides an idyllic base. We stayed just back from the beach in a beautiful bungalow at Pachamama Jungle River Lodge, where use of their kayaks is included in the cost of your stay. Hop on one late afternoon and head down the river to the beach for sunset. If you’re lucky, you might spot a sloth or two.
Panama
The last of the bunch before Central America turns into South. If you’re after a local hidden spot here, head straight to Santa Catalina.
- Our Airbnb was just a five-minute walk down a dirt track and through trees to the La Punta surf spot. The high ceilings and outdoor shower were perfect for the humidity that the coast is known for.
- Don’t miss ice-cream or coffee, or ice cream AND coffee, at the gelateria just around the corner. We can vouch for their affogatos – the perfect post-surf treat.
- For a true Panamanian experience, head to Santa Catalina’s town beach at sunset. There will be families everywhere, with groups of boys playing football on the sand. You’ll be beckoned over to join in or you’re equally as welcome to sit and watch – just don’t forget your beers.
It’s the evenings like this you’ll be glad you ended up at the end of a long dirt track, doing as the locals do, instead of in a resort hotel that could feel like any country in the world. Central America is unique, make sure to find the hidden local spots that make it that way.
