Colombia and coffee: the country has few exports as synonymous as this. As the third largest producer in the world, and the only one where each and every bean is picked by hand, this is the country where you need to have a cup of joe. Or ten.
A quick Google of coffee in Colombia brings up repeated results referring to ‘Eje Cafetero’ or ‘The Coffee Axis’. The area is located in the western region and is the center of the country’s coffee production, thanks to the area’s perfect combination of altitude, climate and volcanic soil.
With rolling green farmland and colorful Colonial towns, we’re not denying the area is well worth a visit: it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site after all. Yet like many now popular places across the globe, which drew visitors to lesser-known attractions, Colombia’s premier coffee region is now saturated.
Salento is a prime example: a firm favorite on the well-trodden Latin America backpacker route, with a long list of hostels and organized tours on offer. Thanks to the Valle de Cocora, or Cocora Valley, visitors come here to tick a few items off their list.
Palm tree shots for Instagram: tick. Coffee tour on Jeep shots for Instagram: tick. And by all means, we encourage you to visit: like most popular places, they’re popular for a reason. But the real beauty in Colombia’s coffee region won’t be found here.
After spending six weeks exploring Colombia and enjoying a multitude of incredible coffee, well away from the ‘the coffee region’, here are my top picks for authentic experiences, deep in the Andes mountains.
Don Leandro Special Coffee Farm
Don Leandro Special Coffee Farm is a family-run finca, growing high-altitude, single-origin sundried and roasted coffee. Whilst most coffee farm tours are limited to a tour of the land, an explanation of the process and a coffee tasting, a visit to Don Leandro adds a whole new level.
The farm, located at 2600m above sea level, in a cloud forest overlooking the city of Medellín, allows visitors a variety of options. Public transport is available from the city, or you’re welcome to drive if you have your own vehicle.
For those interested in arriving another way, the tours offer the option to incorporate horse riding or mountain biking. Its close proximity to the forested reserve of Avri Park allows easy access to leisure activities, allowing unique methods of arriving at the elevated position of the farm in the Andes mountains.
Don Leandro also offers the option to extend your stay beyond a day. Once you arrive, you’ll understand why this is a good idea. The panoramic views are phenomenal and are easily appreciated from every aspect of the farm. ‘Coffee caves’ are on offer for those wishing to spend the night and our evening spent there transformed our experience from coffee tour to a complete immersive experience.
As well as all-inclusive dining, the farm also offers wellness facilities. With treatments centering on coffee (of course), a sauna with a view of the city below and a cold plunge pool surrounded by coffee plants, the family have thought of everything.
The highlight of our stay was sitting around the fire pit with the farm’s caretaker, following our massages, sauna and swim. He had brewed us fresh coffee, chosen his favourite Colombian music and recounted stories, which we enjoyed as the incredible panorama of the city began to light up below.
The next morning, after a traditional Colombian breakfast, we had the opportunity to take a tour of the farm. This enhanced our experience tenfold, not least because of the high quality of the tour. We learnt about the land, the farming processes and the years of work that goes into each and every cup of coffee.
We picked our own beans, planted our own tree and brewed our own espresso. The tour ended with a presentation of personalized bags of the speciality beans we had been drinking for the past 24 hours. It’s so good that we’re still savoring it to this day.
Jardín, an Andean town in Northwest Colombia
There are several colonial towns nestled within the Andes mountains that lie on the outskirts of Colombia’s famous coffee region. Each is worth a visit in its own right, offering stunning scenery, picture-perfect pueblos and coffee tours galore.
However, these towns have so much more to offer than tours and tourist attractions.
These towns are about the locals, and living like one. They’re about visiting the cafes that border the squares, and people-watching the customers at every table.
Observing the local men donning traditional dress: sombreros, woollen ponchos and leather boots. It’s about ordering a cup of coffee and staying awhile, watching local life unfold around you. Children playing, dogs passing by, men riding horseback and tuk-tuks delivering people and produce.
Life here is far removed from Europe or North America, and the well-trodden backpacker trail through other Colombian towns. There are no vegan restaurants, no organic shops, no chain stores: just coffee and local life.
Our favourite of these towns was Jardín, but Jericó and Filandia are up there too. We spent a week in this quaint and colorful town: hiking the trails that loop through coffee farms and banana plantations every morning, and trying every one of the cafés each afternoon.
There are a variety of hikes to choose from, but our favorite wasn’t the most well-known or recommended. Here are the options so you can decide for yourselves.
Hikes:
- Mirador Cristo Rey or Cerro de Cristo Rey Ruta Circular
- Cueva del Esplendor
- Cascada Salto del Angel – Caida de Dragon
- Charco Corazón – Cascada del Amor
Our favorite was an adaption of the last on the list. Leaving the town via El Camino de la Herrera, a road opened in 1858 and beautifully preserved because of its heritage interest.
The cobbled path is lined with unlisted accommodation options, adorned with a variety of colorful blooms, and bordered by fields full of free ranging animals.
The path gradually inclines upwards, providing stunning views of coffee farms, banana plantations, local homes and the town below.
You’ll pass waterfalls, cafés and finally reach La Garrucha. Even if you’d prefer not to risk a ride on the questionable cable car, it’s worth a stop for fresh juice at the viewpoint before looping back to town.
Hike completed, the afternoons are for coffee, and here are our picks of Jardín’s finest.
Cafés:
A warm welcome with a host that speaks incredible English. This hidden coffee shop is well worth the detour from the main square. You’ll feel far from civilization in the peaceful garden at the back of the café.
The most well-known café in town is definitely worth a mention. There are two branches: we’d recommend the top floor option with a table by the balcony. The views of the church and the town square are paired perfectly with one of their specialty drinks.
Whilst most of our days were spent hiking before coffee, this café allowed us to combine the two pursuits. Located just beyond the Cristo Rey Mirador, this café provides incredible drinks and just as impressive views. It’s a win-win, and definitely one not to miss.
Agustiniano Coffee
Agustiniano Coffee, previously known as Coffee Mujer, is a one-woman locally-run coffee farm, roastery and educational hub. The beans are organically grown, hand-picked and meticulously roasted in Doña Olivia’s finca on the outskirts of San Agustin: a town known for its archaeological sites and striking statues in the Huila region of Colombia.
The coffee farm and shop owner is extremely passionate about the craft and teaches her tricks of the trade to an association of local women.
Each Friday, groups of around sixty students join Doña Olivia on her finca, to learn everything involved with the coffee production process: from planting the beans to producing a cup.
Visitors are just as welcome to experience both the educational aspect and the incredible experience at Agustiniano Coffee.
Olivia offers complimentary tours of her finca where you are both allowed and encouraged to pick your own beans, and process them too. You’ll be involved with every aspect of production here: cleaning, drying and even roasting them. The only cost involved is to buy your own hand-roasted coffee beans, a purchase we’re sure you won’t refuse.
We hope this selection of coffee experiences outside Colombia’s primary coffee region has illustrated the scope for exploration and experiences outside of the ordinary.
The internet offers incredible ease for researching popular itineraries and booking highly rated tours, yet this doesn’t always allow for unique opportunities.
As memorable as the most popular tourist attractions can be, make sure to leave time to go off the beaten path.
Take part in a different tour.
Visit the café favored by locals. Take time to roast your own beans. And don’t forget to take a little piece of Colombia home with you, to remember your time spent in the Andes.
Traveling to Colombia: Safety Tips and Advisory for UK and US Citizens
For UK and US citizens, traveling to Colombia is safe with caution. The U.S. and UK advisories recommend reconsidering travel due to crime and terrorism, especially in areas like Arauca and Norte de Santander. Major cities such as Bogotá and Medellín are safer but require vigilance against petty crime. Avoid protests, stay informed via local news, and use reliable transport.
